Gujarat Tribals + Textiles – ‘off the beaten path’

Arrive into Ahmedabad, the capital of Gujarat – a city rich with 500 years of architectural styles and many mosques, step wells and temples. Accommodation for the first three nights is at the incomparable and very lovely House of MG, the former elegant mansion of the prestigious and wealthy Muslim Mangaldas Girdhardas family who have reclaimed it and converted it into a most personable boutique hotel, and one of my favourite places of respite in India.

There is much to be accomplished in the city today, not least seeing the exceptional collection of Textiles and bronzes at the Calico Museum, paying tribute to Gandhi at his original ashram, touring the Shreyas Museum of Folk Arts, the architectural marvel that is the Adalaj-ni-Vav stepwell, and picking up exceptional art books from the wonderful Arts Centre bookshop.

The morning begins with a heritage walk before breakfast. This remarkable city is a treasure trove of architecture from crumbling mansions, to mausoleums, mosques and nunneries, to buildings created by le Corbusier. Later, visit the Lalbhai Dalpatbhai Museum that houses ancient and medieval Indian art treasures, sculptures, bronzes, manuscripts, paintings, drawings, miniature paintings, woodwork and bead work. Lunch today is at Vechaar, a quirkily interesting village-like environment with a museum of old utensils.

Today is a feast for the senses visiting the 1026 A.D. Sun Temple of Modhera, a de Esch like structure. Rani-ki-Vav is one of India’s most astounding stepwells discovered in almost pristine condition in the 1980’s and boasting many storeys of very beautiful classical sculpture; Patan, a beautiful old town with Jain Temples is the famous home of Patola (double ikat) silk saris.
This evening arrive at your lodge bordering the Little Rann of Kutch – a vast salty desert that feels quite surreal; where mirages abound and the parched earth unfolds endlessly in all directions.

Today cross the State to reach the old walled city of Bhuj, capital of the Kutch (“Kachchh”) region known as the “Jaisalmer of Gujarat.” Bhuj is a medieval maze of tight, winding streets, flurried marketplaces, ancient palaces (now museums), and Hindu temples decorated with gaily painted gods, abandoning themselves to the joys and terrors of all their incarnations. Someone described it as “stepping into a Salman Rushdie world of mystery and intrigue”.

Settle into your comfortable inner city hotel before we visit the private home of a collector of museum-quality traditional textiles.

Whilst hand-embellished textiles are the bedrock of the rural economy of Kutch, the region has equally fine terracotta, metal and wood crafts.
Meet directly with artisans in their homes and workshops to meet experts who will illuminate your appreciation of historic and contemporary textiles – fine wool weaving in Bhujodi village, outstanding bandhani (tie+dye) created by Jabbir and his talented family, silk single ikat, and the village of Ajrakhpur where the Khatri family have revived the ancient tradition of block printing with natural dyes.

Today’s highlight is the new museum dedicated to the artists of Kutch. Also visit QASAB, a phenomenal rural enterprise project engaging over 1200 women in embroidery production.

Afternoon tea with a designer who relocated from Sydney several years ago and is now based in Bhuj where she creates one–off contemporary clothes incorporating traditional textiles and old embroideries.
Later this afternoon spend time in the wonderfully colourful bazaars of the old city and visit the night markets.

Today, venture north to the wonderful tribal regions of the barren and inhospitable Rann of Kutch’s vast salt plains that separates the state of Gujarat from Sind in Pakistan to experience the various facets of tribal life.
Visit the villages of Khavda, Hodko and Dhordo. Meet Sufiya in her village home where you can learn the intricate art of mirror-work (shisha embroidery).
Accommodation for the last two nights is a small lodge resort in the peaceful countryside.

Known as the ‘Melting Pot of Tribes’, the Rann of Kutch region is home to many unique tribes (communities), known for their fascinating and colourful culture and traditions. The major tribes of the region are the Megwar, Samma, Jat, Mutwa, Ahir and Rabari whose traditional lifestyles are increasingly under pressure from modernisation.
Visit nearby villages where they create metal and lacquer work.

This morning, for the energetic, there is the opportunity to trek up the hills to a fascinating temple.

Your rooms are reserved until you drive back to Bhuj to take your flight to Mumbai and home or onward directions.
SUGGESTED TOUR EXTENSIONS

• Jaipur Literary Festival
• Rajasthan by Road
• Mumbai and the Ajanta Caves